Steve Mueller's Digital Scrapbook

Europe 2002

Saturday May 11
Bamberg, Germany

When I arrived at the Frankfurt AutoEurope office to pick up our car, the model that we reserved was unavailable, so we were upgraded, at no additional cost, to a Mercedes A170 CDI. Initially, I was hesitant to accept a larger car - too many memories of narrow cobblestone streets and tiny parking garages encountered during previous trips to Europe. A Mercedes was too tempting to pass up, however, and a Diesel engine would reduce our fuel costs. Bamberg After signing the papers and picking up Carolyn at the hotel, we were soon on the A3 Autobahn heading east toward Würzburg. Our final destination for this day was Bamberg, an historic town in a region of northern Bavaria called Franconia. Bamberg is to historic authenticity what Frankfurt is to historic replicas. This 1000 year old treasure has survived Germany's many wars with virtually no physical damage. The popularity of Bamberg is due to the shear number of immaculately preserved historically authentic structures, ranging from cathedrals and bridges down to the simplest family dwellings. Bamberg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Typically, a World Heritage Site is a single structure, such as a palace or a cathedral. In the case of Bamberg, the entire town has received this designation. The symbol of Bamberg is the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), which was constructed in the middle of the Regnitz River, and is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque buildings in Europe. The peculiar, and seemingly precarious, location represented a medieval church-state compromise. During the Middle Ages, Bamberg was designated a Bishopric, which effectively established it as the religious capital of this region of Europe. The Catholic Church owned most of the land and property on the western side of the Regnitz River, and heavily influenced local politics. In contrast, the eastern side of the river was strictly secular and much more commercially oriented. Political tensions between these factions were often elevated, and the mid-river setting of the Altes Rathaus was a symbolic display of neutrality. The main portion of the Altes Rathaus was completed in the mid-15^th century and subsequently renovated in a mixture of Baroque and Rococo styles, complete with exterior frescoes. The more picturesque half-timbered section was added in the late 17^th century, and the spire was added nearly a century later. Thus, the present-day appearance of the town hall only dates back about two centuries. Immediately downstream from the Altes Rathaus is a scenic stretch of the Regnitz known as " Little Venice", where the river bank is lined with half-timbered fisherman's cottages dating from the 17^th and 18^th centuries. Despite their humble origins, these picture-perfect homes, with their multiple gables and brilliantly tiled roofs, are now among the most upscale dwellings in Bamberg. The ascendancy of the Catholic Church in Medieval Bamberg remains apparent in the physically imposing presence of the Benedictine Monastery of St Michael, which dominates the highest hilltop in the city. The Monastery was founded in 1015 AD, renovated in the 18^th century, and today houses a retirement home. Bamberg is an ideal place to wander, although it can be somewhat strenuous. Like Rome, Bamberg was built on seven hills, so walking entails a lot of elevation gain and loss. The small crooked side streets seem to lead nowhere and yet also seem to implore one to investigate. Along the main streets, restaurants and souvenir shops are ubiquitous, as are canals, parks and gardens. In Bamberg, one never has to be concerned about getting lost because St Michael's Monastery can be seen from almost anywhere in town and provides an immediate point of reference. The only negative aspect of our stay in Bamberg was that our room was not located in the historic portion of the town. We didn't realize this when we booked because the hotel address suggested it was very close to the Old Town Hall. When our reservation confirmation stated that we would be lodged in the Kapellenstrasse unit, we simply assumed that it was nearby. In fact, it was nearly a mile away, in a fairly uninteresting part of the city. This meant that every sightseeing and food-seeking excursion began and ended with a mile-long walk. But that was acceptable. A town like Bamberg is worth a little inconvenience.
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