Although Burgundy boasts a variety of attractions for the traveler, including
some of the most impressive abbeys in France, two of the most powerful cities of
medieval Europe, and countless small villages that demand the use of a camera,
we were here to visit the most famous vineyards in the world.
We are not connoisseurs of fine wine, so, unlike the overwhelming majority of
tourists in this area, we were not in Burgundy on a quest for wine, nor were we
interested in classes that teach the art of wine tasting, or even the free samples
offered by the larger wine estates. We were drawn, in part, by the history and
culture associated with one of the oldest traditions in the world, but it was the
vineyards themselves that we were most anxious to see.
The vineyards of Burgundy, as with those of Bordeaux and Champagne, represent
the culmination of centuries of a European obsession with the perfect combination
of soil and climate. Vineyards in Italy, Spain and Germany may produce many
bottles of fine wine, but the more notable towns of Burgundy are literally
synonymous with the finest wines on earth.
In addition to the historic and economic significance of this rich wine-growing
region, many of the vineyards themselves are as scenic, not to mention as old,
as any cathedral or castle. Vines are arranged in immaculately spaced rows,
sometimes rigorously straight, sometimes curving to conform to the contours of
the land, but always faithfully preserving an order established countless
generations ago. The oldest Burgundy vineyards were laid out when this area was
still inhabited by "barbarians," and predate the very concept of Europe.
This morning, our greatest concern was that the summer heat wave in France, which was
responsible for tens of thousands of deaths, might have been equally devastating to
the vineyards. Fields of withered vines and dead colorless leaves would be a
tremendous disappointment, particularly since this entire trip was planned
specifically so that we would be in Burgundy in the fall when the legendary vineyards
were at their most colorful.
Fortunately, we would soon discover that, although most, but not all, of the
grapes had been harvested, the multi-colored leaves were neither withered nor
cropped and the vineyards were as spectacular as we had hoped.
Côte de Nuits
The most renowned vintage red wines in the world originate exclusively along the
Côte de Nuits, a narrow east-facing escarpment that extends from Beaune
to Dijon. The road connecting these two great medieval cities follows the base of
the escarpment and separates some of the most exclusive vineyards in Europe from
the more undistinguished "$20 a bottle" vineyards that stretch to the eastern horizon.
Pound for pound, the crops grown along this ribbon of land, in some places only a few
hundred feet wide, are among the most valuable in the world. A map of the sixteen
villages within the Côte de Nuits is reminiscent of the wine list at an
upscale restaurant: Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Nuits-St-Georges,
Vosne-Romanée, and Gevrey-Chambertin are among the more familiar names. Some of
these vintages are so valuable that wine speculation is a longstanding tradition. The
value of a bottle of wine chosen by a knowledgeable investor may appreciate at a rate
that exceeds more traditional investments.
A Little History
Wine-bearing grapes were introduced to Burgundy nearly two thousand years ago during
the Roman occupation. The name Burgundy is derived from the Roman Burgundia.
Roman emperors restricted the amount of wine produced in this region because of the
threat Burgundy wines posed to Italian wine exports. For this reason, the Burgundy
wine industry did not explode until after the collapse of the Roman Empire.
The most famous Côte de Nuits vintner was Charlemagne, who, more than
twelve centuries ago, owned vineyards near the present-day town of Aloxe-Corton.
Upon his death, Charlemagne ceded his vineyards to the Catholic Church, which
soon acquired vastly greater holdings, and dominated Burgundy wine production
for nearly one thousand years until the French Revolution disseminated much of the
land to local peasants. The wealth of the soil imparted a new type of aristocracy on
these fortunate farmers and their descendants. Even Napoleon had a fondness for the
wines of the Côte de Nuits, and religiously insisted on a glass of
Chambertin before each battle.
The labeling and marketing of Burgundy wines is relentlessly regulated. The supreme
designation, bestowed upon an elite collection of vineyards that most consistently
produce wine-bearing grapes of exceptional quality, is Grand Crus, French for
"great growth." The Grand Crus wines account for approximately 1% of all
Burgundy wine production, and most originate from vineyards in or near the Côte
de Nuits. Next in the wine hierarchy are the Premier Crus ("first growth"),
which account for just over 10% of Burgundy wine production. Every Grand Crus
and Premier Crus wine is associated with a single vineyard.
Next in this hierarchy are the village, or commune, wines. Generally, these wines
are not produced from grapes originating within a single vineyard, but represent a
blended product created from several proximal vineyards. If these vineyards are all
within the same town, the label may bear the name of the town. Sub-quality village
wines are sometimes referred to as sub-appellation village wines. Finally,
regional wines are simply required to be produced from grapes originating
anywhere within a specific region, such as Burgundy. Together, lesser quality
sub-appellation village wines and regional wines account for approximately
two-thirds of Burgundy wine production.
Driving The Côte de Nuits
We quickly discovered that the Côte de Nuits is not particularly tourist
friendly. Vignerons that market their top wines in excess of US$1000 per
bottle tend to be unenthusiastic about peddling postcards and refrigerator magnets.
Wine alone is sufficient to sustain these towns financially, as well as instill
their residents with pride. The villages of the Côte de Nuits are famous,
perhaps even pretentious, but they do not regard themselves as tourist destinations.
There are sporadic signs indicating the Route des Grands Crus, but this
designated byway does not lead drivers to any undiscovered treasures. It is simply
a small road that parallels N74 and passes directly through each of the Côte
de Nuits villages. Finding the villages is not difficult. The challenge for the
visitor is knowing what to see in each of the towns.
Complicating matters further, an unusually high percentage of the local vineyards
consist of small family-owned Estates, sometimes no larger than three or four
acres, as opposed to the expansive ranch-like Domaines that are more likely
to cater to wine-consuming tourists. My impression was that the majority of visitors
to the Côte de Nuits arrive as part of a prepackaged tour, typically
specializing in either wine tasting or bicycling. The independent traveler will
likely find this region confusing to navigate.
We decided to focus on the prime stretch of Côte de Nuits real estate
between Nuits-St-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin. We first passed through the small,
but immensely famous, town of Nuits-St-Georges. With less than 6000 inhabitants,
this picturesque village is surprisingly indifferent to tourism. A museum focusing
primarily on wine production and the Roman occupation was the only obvious overture
to the tourist industry, unless one includes the massive 13th century
church, which was probably developed for other reasons. In the absence of wine,
Nuits-St-Georges claims to fame would be modest, at best. It is the birthplace of
the 19th century mathematician and astronomer Tisserand, for whom both
a major street in Paris and a large lunar crater are named.
Immediately outside of Nuits-St-Georges, we encountered our first Clos,
or walled vineyard. The Domaine Louis Jadot, is a producer of Grand
and Premier Crus, as well as village wines. From the Domaine, we
climbed into the vineyards above Nuits-St-Georges on a series of dirt roads. From
the Côte de Nuits escarpment, we were treated to some impressive views
of the Burgundy plains to the east.
It was in this area that we first became aware of the presence of men walking
around the vineyards carrying shot guns. We eventually decided that their only
concern was frightening birds away from the grapes. They did not seem to object
to our presence, one even nodded politely as we passed. Maybe they thought that
anyone driving a Saxo must be harmless.
A stately structure in the distance attracted our attention. With a few tour buses in
the parking lot, it appeared to be the closest thing resembling a tourist attraction
that we had noticed thus far. Three minutes later, we discovered that it was the
château of the Clos de Vougeot. Originating as a small collection of
vineyards planted by 12th century Cistercian monks, Vougeot is now the
largest walled vineyard in Burgundy, and possesses an almost legendary status among
French wine enthusiasts. The château, which dates from the early monastic period,
was the setting for a scene in a Stendahl novel. Although the boundaries of the
Domaine have not been modified since the 14th century, the
Clos currently has more than eighty owners due to (now repealed) inflexible
inheritance laws that demanded the subdivision of vineyards and the inheritance of
equal plots by all male heirs.
Nearby, within the walled confines of the Clos de Vougeot, was the photogenic
Château de la Tour, built in 1890 by the family that still owns the
surrounding vineyards. Although considerably smaller than the Château du Clos
de Vougeot, this structure is visually more appealing. It was built when a
prominent family of local wine merchants unexpectedly were denied access to the
Château du Clos de Vougeot and desperately needed an alternative place to
process and store their wine. The necessity of the small wine château is evident
when one considers the immense value of the land sacrificed for construction. Shortly
after the First World War, the château, along with the vineyards, was sold, but
soon returned to the family as the result of a crucial marriage. Apparently, marriage
for strategic advantage is not limited to royalty.
Descending through the vineyards along a path that also carried us toward the north,
we soon arrived at Gevrey-Chambertin, arguably the most famous of the Côte de
Nuits wine villages. Wine-bearing grapes have been in continuous cultivation in
this vicinity since the 7th century. Originally known only as Gevrey,
town officials decided to append the name of a nearby world-class vineyard to the
town designation, and it became Gevrey-Chambertin. The wine commune associated with
Gevrey-Chambertin has nine Grand Crus, more than any other Côte de
Nuits village.
In addition to quality, the wines of Burgundy are also classified by their method of
production. Domaine wines, which are produced on site from a single vineyard,
and thus may qualify as a Grand or Premier Crus, are regarded as
substantially superior to the more common négociant wines, which are a
product of mixtures of grapes purchased by merchants from various vintners.
Négociant is the French word for merchant, and négociant wines
are typically produced off site. Négociants produce many, if not most, of
the blended village and regional wines, and are critical to the small vineyard owners
who generally do not have the ability to market their products in a commercially
viable manner.
Despite their reputation for high quality, Domaine wines, including the
Grand and Premier Crus are notoriously inconsistent. A specific
vineyard will inevitably have good years and bad years, great vintages and
not-so-great vintages. The blending process used to produce négociant
wines generally eliminates vineyard-specific fluctuations in quality, resulting in a
generally good, but rarely exceptional wine. Domaine wines are more scarce
and considerably more expensive than négociant wines, but if in doubt,
French wine labels typically indicate the type of product.
From Gevrey-Chambertin, it was only a few miles to Dijon, the largest city in
Burgundy and one of the great medieval cities of Europe.
Dijon
Don't be misled by the name. Just as Limoges is literally synonymous with
porcelain, Dijon is literally synonymous with mustard. But there is more to
Dijon than mustard. A lot more.
A Little More History
Those unfamiliar with European history are likely to underestimate the significance
of this former capital of Burgundy, which at one time was an independent state and
the greatest rival to neighboring France. During the 14th century, the
French King Jean II (John the Good), granted the region of Burgundy to his youngest
son, Philip the Bold, rather than allowing his oldest son, and successor to the
throne, to acquire the area upon his death. In that period, it was not unusual for
European monarchs to grant large tracts of land to younger sons (that would not
accede the throne) as a source of income. Philip soon initiated a process of empire
building, vigorously continued by his heirs, and acquired much of present-day Belgium
through marriage. Within a few generations, the state of Burgundy incorporated all
of modern Belgium, Holland, and Luxembourg, as well as the contemporary French
provinces of Alsace and Lorraine. At this point, the rulers of Burgundy were the
wealthiest monarchs in Europe.
As the wealth and power of the Dukes of Burgundy increased, France was on the decline
due to the devastation suffered at the hands of the English in the Hundred Years War.
One consequence of this shifting balance of power was that Burgundy soon posed a
serious threat to France. With each successive generation, the family bonds of the
French and Burgundian leaders became less compelling. Initially the King of France
and Duke of Burgundy were brothers. This was followed by a generation of cousins,
then second cousins, and so on. As familial considerations became less important, the
rival states became more antagonistic toward one another. Burgundy was now the
wealthiest state in western Europe, and began to regard France as a somewhat backward
and distant relative. The resulting tension culminated with the 1419 murder of the
Duke of Burgundy while negotiating a treaty with the French. This desperate act
seemed to portend disaster for France because the furious son (and successor) of the
murdered Duke immediately entered into an alliance with England, France's traditional
enemy and opponent in the Hundred Years War. Eventually, however, the hostilities
between France and England were concluded in favor of France, at which point the
French monarch decided that an independent Burgundy represented a threat that would
no longer be tolerated. War was declared, and without the burden of the conflict with
England, the French forces were highly effective. In 1477, the last Duke of Burgundy,
Charles the Bold, was killed in battle near Nancy. The Golden Age of Burgundy was
over and the renegade empire was once again part of France.
An Afternoon in Dijon
We arrived in Dijon just after Noon and followed the blue and white "P" signs to a
parking garage beneath Place Darcy, which in previous centuries was one of
eleven portals within the medieval fortified wall. Although we arrived at this point
largely by accident, it proved to be an ideal place to begin a tour of Dijon. The
Rue de la Liberté runs between Place Darcy and the Church of Saint
Michel. Virtually all of the the main attractions of Dijon are clustered along, or
very near, this axis, including the original Grey Poupon mustard shop, Renaissance
houses of the Rue des Forges and the Rue Musette, the enormous Palace of the Dukes,
the Place de la Libération, and the Church of Notre-Dame.
Place Darcy commemorates the life and work of Henri Darcy, a 19th
century civil engineer who introduced pioneering techniques for the treatment of
public drinking water. Most physicists and engineers are familiar with Darcy's
Law, a useful parameterization of fluid flow in porous media. The buildings
that line "the square," actually more like a triangle, are attractive, and enclose
an 18th century triumphal arch called Porte Guillaume. Nearly a
dozen streets, including several boulevards, converge here, along with the associated
noise and auto exhaust. Despite this, Place Darcy rates fairly high on the
"pretty scale."
From Place Darcy we headed east along Rue de la Liberté toward
the great palace. Along the way, at 32 Rue de la Liberté, we passed
the original Grey Poupon mustard store founded in 1777 by Monsieurs Grey and
Poupon. Grey was a spice connoisseur who had developed a technique for making
mustard with white wine, and Poupon was a business man with the financial
resources necessary for mass production and marketing.
The Rue de la Liberté leads directly to Place Francois-Rude, a
small bustling square lined with shops and restaurants. Named after a popular
French sculptor and Dijon native, the square features several prominent colorful
half-timbered houses, but most visitors are drawn to the centerpiece, a fountain
crowned with a statue of a boy stomping grapes in an obvious tribute to the wine
culture that gives this region so much of its identity.
From the square, we made a brief excursion away from the main street and wandered
among the 15th and 16th century houses near the Church of
Notre-Dame. A favorite of mine was the Maison Millière, a
timber-and-stone relic of the Golden Age of Burgundy dating from the late
15th century. Another contender was the Hôtel de Vogüé,
built more than a century later virtually in the shadow of the church, this large
mansion features a Burgundy tradition - a roof of glazed tile. Both of these homes
are along Rue de la Chouette, which means "Street of the Owl," named after
a small owl carved into one of the church buttresses. According to tradition,
rubbing the owl with the left hand will fulfill a wish.
Afterwards, we visited the outside areas of the Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne,
which is the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. The Palace complex looks very different
than during the Golden Age of Burgundy because it was renovated during the late
17th century in the style of Versailles. The "Square" (actually a
semi-circle) in front of the palace is named the Place de la Libération.
It was formally called Place Royale, but when the French decided to become
part of the modern world and discard the archaic notions of kings and queens, they
renamed quite a few streets and places throughout France.
Finally, we visited the Église Saint-Michel, a mixed Gothic and
Renaissance structure built during the 15th, 16th and
17th centuries.
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